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Facade painting

The cheapest option —
provided it is the right one

Painting a facade is the fastest way to make a home look cared for again. It is also the job that most often tackles the wrong problem. Below you will find which paint suits which facade, why vapour permeability matters more than colour, and when we advise you not to paint at all.

What mattersLetting vapour outclass V1 to EN 1062 — silicate or siloxane
Working range10 – 25 °Cmax. 85% humidity · spring to autumn
Indicative price€25 – 45/m²excl. VAT · preparation and two coats
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The essentials

A facade has to be able to release moisture

Every wall gives off moisture continuously: construction moisture, rain that has penetrated, vapour from inside the home. A facade paint has to let that through. If it does not, it becomes the lid on a pot that keeps on steaming.

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What goes wrong with a paint that is too closed

The moisture stays trapped behind the paint layer. First you see blisters, then the paint flakes off, and after that damp patches appear on the inside. In winter the trapped moisture freezes and pushes pieces of brick or render away. At that point you are not looking at one lost paint job, but at a facade renovation.

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There is a standard for it

The European standard EN 1062 classifies facade paints by vapour permeability: V1 is highly vapour-open, V2 moderate, V3 vapour-retarding. There is also a class for water absorption, from W1 to W3. The combination you want on a facade is V1 with W3: vapour gets out easily, rain gets in with difficulty.

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Stricter on a retrofitted cavity wall

For painting a cavity wall that has been insulated after construction, Buildwise applies a concrete requirement: a paint with a vapour diffusion resistance sd of no more than 0.05 m, and even then only if the facade is in good condition and not heavily weather-exposed. That is stricter than the ordinary V1 class.

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Diagnosis first, paint second

Where there are damp problems, paint is rarely the answer. Buildwise stresses that you first remove the cause — a water-repellent treatment does not miraculously solve every damp problem. During the site visit we look at where the moisture is coming from before we talk about colours.

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The wrong paint on a healthy facade does more damage than no paint at all.

— VediWorks
The types of paint

Four types, and the substrate does the choosing

It is not your taste that determines the type of paint, but what lies underneath. A paint that does not suit the substrate will either peel off or seal the facade — however expensive it was.

PaintVapour-openWater absorptionAdheres toStrong point
Silicone resinsiloxaneMost versatile Class V1 – V2 Low (W3) Practically any substrate, including existing render Combines vapour transport with strong water and dirt repellency; high colour stability possible
Silicate paintmineral, potassium silicateOn mineral facades Class V1 — the highest Low (W3) Mineral substrates only: render, lime, concrete, masonry Bonds chemically with the substrate instead of forming a film; the highest colour stability
Acrylic / dispersionsynthetic resin-boundLimited Class V2 — noticeably more closed Low (W3) Practically everything, including old acrylic paint The widest choice of colours and the lowest price — but the wrong choice on a facade that has to breathe
LimewashtraditionalNiche choice Very high High Lime-bound render and old masonry Authentic appearance on historic masonry; needs maintenance more often than the modern systems

Classes to EN 1062: V1 = sd less than 0.14 m (highly vapour-open), V2 = sd 0.14 to 1.4 m, V3 = sd greater than 1.4 m. Water absorption: W3 = lowest absorption. The exact values are given per product in the technical data sheet. Rule of thumb for existing render: mineral, silicate-bound or silicone-bound render calls for a siloxane paint; acrylic-bound render calls for acrylic again. During the site visit we establish which type your render is — mineral render visibly darkens when you wet it, resin-bound render does not.

Preparation

Three quarters of the work happens before the first coat

Anyone who saves on preparation saves on the one stage that determines how long the result lasts. This is what happens before any paint is involved.

  1. Cleaning at limited pressureA facade is cleaned with controlled pressure and heat, not with a pressure washer at full power. The rule of thumb in the trade is no more than 60 bar, no more than 60 °C water and at least 60 cm distance. Too much pressure makes render and joints more porous, so that they take up even more water.
  2. Treating moss and letting it workA biocide is applied and given about a day to work, applied from the bottom upwards so that no vertical streaks appear. Whatever is not dead grows back through the paint.
  3. Repairing what is openDamaged joints, hairline cracks and crumbling plinths are repaired. Salt efflorescence is brushed off dry, never washed off wet. Loose layers of paint are removed completely.
  4. Stabilising a chalking substrateIf the facade leaves powder on your hand, a diluted stabilising primer goes on first to bind the loose particles. Without that step the paint adheres to dust instead of to the facade.
  5. Two coats, in the right weatherWorking range 10 to 25 °C for both air and substrate, no more than 85% relative humidity, and a surface temperature at least 3 °C above the dew point. Not in full sun, because the paint then dries faster than it can bond.

The alternative nobody suggests: water-repellent treatment

If your facade still looks good but the rain is driving through it, painting is not the only route. A water-repellent treatment makes the masonry shed water without laying a film over it, so that vapour permeability remains virtually untouched and your brickwork stays visible.

Conditions: brick and joint in good condition, no cracks, no rising damp, and sound connections. It makes sense against direct driving rain, not against other causes of damp. We propose it where it fits — even though it is a smaller job than painting.

The honest question

Is paint enough, or do you need more?

Painting is enough when…

  • the render is still stable and sound, without major damage
  • the problem is dirt, discolouration or a dated shade
  • the masonry is healthy and only needs protection and a fresher look
  • you intend to tackle the facade thoroughly within a few years anyway and are bridging the gap

Painting is pointless when…

  • the facade is badly chalking or the render is coming loose
  • there are several cracks or cracks that keep returning
  • there is a damp problem behind the render
  • the masonry is new — allow at least a year of waiting time

And the question behind it

If you have ended up in the second list, the render needs renewing. At that moment you pay for the scaffolding, the preparation and the complete finish all over again. That is precisely the moment to do the sums: add external wall insulation and you go from roughly €40 to €80 per m² to €110 to €150, and you keep 30 to 35% of your heating costs in your pocket from then on.

We would rather say that now than after you have paid for scaffolding a second time. If you want to weigh that choice up at your leisure, it is set out in full on choosing insulation.

Insulated facades

Repainting an ETICS facade: allowed, with two rules

If you have an insulated facade that is ready for a refresh after ten or fifteen years, nothing has to be taken down. Repainting is possible — within two limits.

1 · Only an approved, vapour-open paint

The paint must be vapour-open and approved by the supplier of your ETICS system. A different product voids the system warranty — and you only find that out when you need it. On top of that, a paint on ETICS must be water-beading and dirt-repellent, to limit the water absorption of the decorative render and the effect of UV.

2 · The same colour limit as for the render

The Belgian ETICS Manual holds that the lightness value of the colour must be higher than 20%. That limit does not disappear when you repaint: the finishing layer on insulation stays a few millimetres thick, and EPS starts to deform above 80 °C — a temperature that a dark facade reaches in summer sun. More on that on the render and decorative plaster page.

Not sure whether your facade should be painted or renewed?

Work out your indicative price online. During the free on-site visit we establish the type of substrate and tell you honestly which of the two you need — even when that is the smaller job.

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Frequently asked questions

About facade painting

Which paint should go on a facade?
Above all, a facade paint has to let water vapour through. The European standard EN 1062 divides facade paints into classes for exactly that: class V1 stands for high vapour permeability, V3 for a vapour-retarding paint. Silicate and silicone resin paints generally reach V1 and combine that with low water absorption; acrylic or dispersion paints are film-forming and let less vapour through. Which of the vapour-open paints it becomes depends on the substrate: on mineral render and old masonry, silicate or siloxane is the right call; on acrylic-bound render, an acrylic paint belongs once again.
Why is a vapour-permeable facade paint so important?
A wall gives off moisture continuously. Put a closed film over it and that moisture stays in the wall and behind the paint layer. The result is flaking paint, damp patches indoors and, in time, frost damage to the brickwork. For painting a cavity wall insulated after construction, Buildwise therefore applies a concrete requirement: a paint with a vapour diffusion resistance sd of no more than 0.05 m, and even then only if the facade is in good condition and not heavily weather-exposed. For ordinary facade paint, class V1 to EN 1062 is the class to aim for.
Can I repaint my render?
Yes, as long as the render is still sound: not chalking, with no loose sections and no underlying damp problem. On a chalking substrate a stabilising primer goes on first. The choice of paint follows the type of render: mineral, silicate-bound or silicone-bound render calls for a siloxane paint, acrylic-bound render for an acrylic paint. An acrylic paint on mineral render seals the facade and causes precisely the problems you wanted to avoid.
May an insulated facade be repainted?
Yes, but only with a vapour-open paint approved by the supplier of your ETICS system. A different product voids the system warranty. The same colour restriction applies as for the decorative render: the Belgian ETICS Manual holds that the lightness value of the colour must be higher than 20%, because a dark colour heats up the thin finishing layer on insulation too strongly.
When is painting not enough?
Paint is a finishing layer, not a repair. On a badly chalking facade, with several or recurring cracks, with loose sections of render or with a damp problem behind the render, paint solves nothing and hides the problem for one season at most. Renewing the render is then the right move — and that is immediately the moment to consider putting insulation underneath, because you are paying for the scaffolding and the finish anyway.
What time of year can a facade be painted?
For water-based facade paint, 10 to 25 °C is taken as the working range, for both air and substrate temperature, at a relative humidity of no more than 85% and with a surface temperature at least 3 °C above the dew point. In practice that means spring to autumn in dry weather. Below 10 °C the paint film does not form properly and bonds poorly — painting in November because it happens to be dry gives you a facade that has to be done again next year.
Vedi Group

Same home, a different job?

VediWorks is one of Vedi Group's four companies. Interior painting, a post-construction clean or maintaining shared areas: one contact, the same crews, the same standard.

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